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Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing, by Tony Butt, Paula Russell, Rick Grigg
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Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you.
Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don’t need a scientific background to read it―just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
- Sales Rank: #136321 in Books
- Published on: 2014-03-31
- Released on: 2014-03-31
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.76" h x .42" w x 7.52" l, 1.09 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 136 pages
About the Author
Author: Butt, Tony;
Tony Butt has a Ph.D., in physical oceanography and worked with the Coastal Processes Research Group at Plymouth University. He is a big-wave surfer and lives in Spain.
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Five Stars
By JK
Excellent short book on the forces that make coastal oceans dynamic.
0 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
worth upgrading to this version?
By John Barrett
I have a question. If have the 1st edition, from 2004 I think, is it still worth buying this book.
I mean are there additional features, discussions, etc.
Thanks,
Johnny
0 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
I really much enjoyed readind it
By sabrina
Informative and entertaining book to learn the basics. I really much enjoyed readind it.
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